What Would Jessie Dish? A New Wednesday Feature: Introduction to the Project and the German Pancake

My grandmother is just 16, at her high school graduation in 1920.

She could dish it up, but can I make it?

In helping my mother get ready to move into an assisted living apartment recently, I came across my mother’s copy of The Joy of Cooking.  She no longer wanted it, had not used it in many years, and said I should take it.  However, it was not it until I had returned home, when I discovered that the book had a 5” x  7” Manilla envelope containing a number of recipes from my late grandmother, Jessie.  She died nearly 20 years ago.  I cannot imagine that anyone knew whatever happened to these recipes.  So I was excited to have stumbled on this treasure trove.

There were nearly 20 recipes, half typed on 3″ x 5″ cards, with the others were written in her careful handwriting on various pieces of scrap paper (“Waste not, want not!” Jessie would implore, having lived through the Great Depression).  Most of the recipes are for baked goods (hooray!), and I do remember having eaten most of these dishes.  There are a few I am sure she did not make for me, so re-creating other recipes my grandmother made intrigues me as well.

I decided that it would be a fun feature on IslandEAT to prepare each and every one of the recipes, expanding or clarifying the directions, and assessing the results.   Many are in the short-hand of an experienced baker – and cook – who knew her technique well, so the steps are implicit – that is fine if you know the technique, of course, and, fortunately, I have developed a sense for baking over the years and am familiar with many similar recipes.

However, some recipes, especially the handwritten ones,  are completely vague and lacking directions – and even titles.   I will have to experiment to see if I can re-create what I think she had intended. What they all have in common is a no-nonsense, non-fussy simple approach with relatively few ingredients.  The recipes are primarily American or, in a few cases, European.  Some are still current and even in vogue, while others do seem rather vintage, e.g., “apricot mold”, which uses apricot jello and evaporated milk — not the kind of thing I generally make, but I am ready to try it.

From now until I have prepared all 18, I will feature a Wednesday recipe from the past, with a scan of the original recipe (and sometimes, the odd bits I have found on the reverse side), aiming to do this every week until the end of summer.  I expect to include some recollections of her, as she was a bit of a character, with a very good sense of humour, unusual turns of phrases, and quite the sharp tongue; Jessie was not afraid to ask – or ask repeatedly – for what she wanted or to let people know exactly what she thought.  I hope this summer project helps IslandEAT’s readers get a glimpse into her personality.

For more on the German Pancake and the What Would Jessie Dish? Recipe Roster

Interestingly enough, there is only one about  which I have blogged already.  It is David Eyre’s Pancake, where you will find detailed directions.  Grandmother Jessie called it, simply, “German Pancake.”  This recipe also is the only one with two versions – one almost exactly like the recipe from Craig Claiborne but with the ingredients increased by 50% (see above) while the other with a slightly different ratio of egg (one more) to milk and flour:

I actually have used an extra egg in the latter case, and this makes the pancake eggier than I prefer.   Of course, I will put in my plug for serving it with lingonberries, as we always did in my family.  Coincidentally, I tried the former version to feed four people at a brunch we were hosting, and that worked quite well, which is here:

Here is the list, with the order, more or less, depending on mood and weather, for the What Would Jessie Dish? Project:

1. German Pancake (two versions of the recipe)
2. Brownies
3. Banana Muffins
4. “Mystery” Dough (you will see why)
   
5. Chocolate Nut Revels
6. Hot Fudge Pie
7. Rice Pudding
8. Madeleines
9. Souffle Sandwiches
10. Strudel
11. “Mystery” Cheese Pancakes
12. “Mandle Bread” (aka, “mandelbrot”)
13. Apricot Mould
14. Sponge Cake
15. “Pan” Cakes
    
16. Brown Sugar Cookies
17. Yorkshire Pudding
18. Pork Tenderloin
19. Swiss Roll
    

At the end of the recipes, we will see how I do in response to the question behind this project, “She could dish it out, but can I make it?”

Jessie loved freshly squeezed lemon.