Pork tenderloin is not a classic Jewish dish, needless to say. Last’s week’s recipe – from my grandmother Jessie’s lost files – was certainly more British than Yiddish. However, this week’s easy yet delightful pork recipe is definitely not kosher.
This treatment of pork tenderloin is the penultimate recipe of the 19 of the series. (I would expect Jessie to say, “Penultimate? We all know what that word means, but can’t you just say ‘next-to-last’? Come on!”). I am amused by Jessie’s pork recipe, following close on the heels of the Yorkshire pudding from last week, which was on the reverse of National Council for Jewish Women stationery. This pair of recipes reveals a good deal about Jessie and her complex personality.
At my parents wedding, pork tenderloin was probably not on the menu (L-R: Jessie, her daughter, her new son-in-law, her step-father, her mother, and her husband, 1957).
For instance, Jessie was neither very religious nor even very observant. This would have been a result of her family’s immigration to the US from Europe in the 1880s, when assimilation into American culture was the dominant force. Jessie’s own mother, Faye, was even known to have fried pork chops on the Sabbath – so much for tradition (think of the song from Fiddler on the Roof here…). The apple really does not fall far from the tree.
(When I think of Sabbath – or Shabbat, in Hebrew – I think of the time the group Kinky Friedman and the Texas Jewboys played a gig in Texas on a Friday night. Someone from the audience screamed out, “Shabbat Shazzam!” to welcome them, rather than the correct, “Shabbat Shalom”. My diversion is a bit off-track, but Jessie’s husband, Louie, had lived in McKinney, Texas, as a young boy, and Kinky Friedman was born in Chicago, as was Jessie, so this all comes back round to her.)
In fact, as an adult, she attended synagogue seldom. Towards the end of her life, she did find one she liked at Water Tower Place. Water Tower Place is a vertical urban upscale shopping centre on north Michigan Avenue in Chicago. It was the first of its kind in the U.S. to put better stores in a mall in a city’s high-rise building. Jessie could walk to this “big-deal” of an urban shopping mall from her condo on the Gold Coast, and often did, given her propensity for shopping. I do remember that she was intrigued by the small synagogue, just above the nine-stories of shops. My theory was she wanted to rest her feet after shopping excursions as much as exploring her new-found faith, in her seventies and eighties.
My mother poses in front of their Xmas tree in 1933 - was pork tenderloin for dinner?
Besides her strudel-rugelach or mandelbrot, most of her recipes were decidedly New World, in origin, and American, in tone, as she was herself. But she liked all things British and French, as well.
The pork tenderloin is noteworthy, in my view, as it was the only meat dish I found. I remember her having made very good pork as well as roast beef and other dishes, which I would have avoided during the vegetarian years of my adolescence . Do I have to tell you that Jessie really did not approve of this phase?
For the review of the pork tenderloin – and the recipe